Unlike the Luangwa in the dry season, the 'Emerald Season' - December to April - is a whole new world of water-logged ebony groves and hippo-filled lagoons. It's home to some of the largest pods in Africa! The wonderful river, fringed by huge fig and sausage trees, rises dramatically, and floating along the water on a boat safari is one of the best ways to view game. The birding scene really comes into its own, in full colourful plumage, and you could see up to 100 species in a single day. Time it just right and you'll be clinking G&Ts as the sun sets over the river. Even better, only a handful of camps are open, so the watery wilderness is all yours.