
The Best of 2018
What did we, and our travellers, get up to in 2018?
Most spots in Ethiopia will make you wonder whether time travel has been invented, but Axum (or Aksum) really is like stepping into the pages of the Old Testament. The fourth-century capital was said to be founded by the great, great grandson of Moses and in its heyday, the empire was one of the four great powers in the world. Today, the small town is most famous for the magnificent granite obelisks, dating from around 300AD, the Queen of Sheba’s palace and swimming pool, and the church of St Mary of Zion. And if that wasn’t enough, it’s also said to be the resting place of the Ark of the Covenant.
Ancient stone obelisks thrust defiantly skyward in Axum, silent testimonies to an empire that once rivaled Rome and Persia. Wander among these monolithic stelae – some standing tall, others dramatically collapsed – and ponder how these massive structures were carved, transported and erected without modern technology. Follow whispered legends to the Chapel of the Tablet, said to house the original Ark of the Covenant (though you'll have to take Ethiopia's word for it – no visitors are allowed inside). Beneath your feet lies a honeycomb of underground tombs and chambers still being excavated, each discovery rewriting what we know about this enigmatic civilization. Visit Queen Sheba's supposed bath, actually a water reservoir that's still impressive regardless of royal connections. The modern town pulses around these ancient wonders, with markets spilling through streets where Orthodox Christianity first took root in Africa and coffee ceremonies unfold just as they have for centuries. Time your exploration for Ethiopian Orthodox celebrations to witness priests in colorful robes carrying sacred replicas through streets filled with white-clad worshippers dancing to the hypnotic rhythm of drums and sistra.
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