
Galapagos Wildlife Guide
Spot these amazing animals on your next adventure
South of Quito, the Andes flatten out into gentle, undulating waves and the mountain vistas of the north are replaced by faraway scenes of burbling brooks and pastures green. This is the southern sierra, a tranquil land where life is laid-back and tourists are still a novelty. At its heart is the town of Cuenca, a beautifully-preserved example of almost 300 years of colonial rule with a UNESCO-designated city centre of cobbled streets and pastel-hued churches. The home of the panama hat (we challenge you to leave without one!), the town today remains a hub for artisans with ceramicists, jewellers and weavers lining the walkways. Beyond the town, the southern landscape unfolds in a unique glory, from the wild, lake-dotted moorlands of Cajas National Park to incredible Ingapirca, the country’s only major Inca ruins. Both are day-trippable from Cuenca and well-worth a visit in your journey around the sierra.
Surrounded by waves of hills and rolling pastures, Cuenca is a hub of history. The remnants of Spanish rule are embedded in its buildings, especially in the UNESCO-recognised centre: set off on your own to explore, or join a guide to really get under the city's skin. Highlights include the Pumapungo Museum and the blue-domed Cathedral Nuevo. Get to know the people and their traditions at the markets where weavings, ceramics and panama hats are sold. Outside the city, explore the Cajas National Park, the incredible Incan ruins of Ingapirca, or enjoy a soak in the volcanic springs of Banos.
This is a place to take it slow: wander through the chocolate-box town centre admiring the architecture, peruse the markets for panamas and pottery, and stroll along the Tomebamba waterfront at dusk.
If you’ve ever fancied learning Spanish, Cuenca could be the place to do just that. Take inspiration from the evocative surroundings and join a language course in one of the townhouses. Then, come evening, head to the square to practise with the locals.
If you’re heading south of Cuenca, the sense of remoteness can be quite astonishing with nothing but mile upon mile of uncultivated fields and tiny toy towns that seem to have been forgotten by time.
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