
The Best of 2018
What did we, and our travellers, get up to in 2018?
For anyone with an iota of interest in history, the royal city of Gondar is a must-add to the list of Ethiopian sights. The capital for much of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, Gondar was home to many of the county’s most famous (and ruthless) kings and emperors, warlords and courtiers who built a succession of impressive castles and churches connected by a series of secret tunnels. The striking melee of Portuguese, Indian and local architectural styles is stirringly majestic and whilst walking around the Royal Enclosure, it’s impossible not to imagine the tales of conspiracy, battle and brutality that took place inside the crumbling walls…
Emperors with grand ambitions left their mark on Gondar, where castle-like palaces rise from the Ethiopian highlands. Wander through the Royal Enclosure, a UNESCO-listed compound where 17th-century kings built their fantasy fortress – all towers, battlements and grand banqueting halls reminiscent of medieval Europe. Each emperor added their architectural touch, creating a jumble of styles that tells Ethiopia's imperial story. Don't miss Debre Berhan Selassie Church, where the ceiling bristles with painted angels watching over worshippers with identical wide-eyed gazes. On market days, the town buzzes with energy as farmers bring produce and artisans display crafts. Visit during Timkat (Epiphany) if possible, when Gondar comes alive – priests in vibrant robes parade replicas of the Ark of the Covenant through streets filled with white-robed celebrants, and the ancient bath that once refreshed royalty fills with water for ritual blessings. Round off your explorations at a traditional coffee ceremony, where beans are roasted, ground and brewed before your eyes.
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