
The Best of 2018
What did we, and our travellers, get up to in 2018?
If there’s one place you might have heard of in Ethiopia, it’s the rock hewn churches of Lalibela – but nothing can prepare you for the moment you see them with your own eyes. Built in the 12th century as a ‘Second Jerusalem’, the 11 spectacular churches were carved by hand into the pastel-red mountains and connected by a warren of tunnels. Each is uniquely extraordinary, delicate yet majestic, and perfectly preserved. Today, the atmosphere is an intoxicating blend of awe and reverence, amplified by the thousand-strong crowds of monks, nuns and worshippers visiting on pilgrimages. This really is Christianity in its most raw and immense form.
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Marvel at Lalibela's monolithic churches, carved from living rock—a feat that would challenge modern architects. At dawn, white-shrouded pilgrims navigate the trenches and tunnels connecting these 12th-century masterpieces, each hewn downward into volcanic tuff using nothing but hand tools and extraordinary devotion. Step inside Bet Giyorgis, the iconic cross-shaped church that appears on nearly every Ethiopian tourism poster, where priests proudly display ancient treasures by flickering candlelight—illuminated manuscripts with pigments still vibrant after eight centuries, ceremonial crosses that have blessed countless generations, and sacred relics that have witnessed the ebb and flow of empires. Ducking through subterranean passageways where medieval craftsmen left their mark in intricate symbols and decorations, you'll feel as though you've stepped through a portal in time. During festivals like Timkat and Leddet, these stone sanctuaries transform into living theatres where priests twirl beneath embroidered umbrellas to the hypnotic rhythm of drums, while voices rise in ancient Ge'ez chants that echo against rock walls. Beyond the churches, climb the surrounding hills for views that surpass drone footage, or visit traditional tukul houses where locals might invite you to share coffee prepared in a ceremony that turns a simple beverage into a social institution. Lalibela exists in two worlds at once—a 12th-century vision still breathing in the 21st century.
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