Imfolozi Game Reserve, in Zululand, is famously known as the place where the southern white rhino was saved from extinction. It remains the best place to see both white and black species. There are two trail options: one where you stay in and walk out each day from a base camp, and the other where you walk between satellite camps; but fear not, donkeys carry the heavy stuff. The chances of not seeing rhinos here are slim, making it just about the only place left in Africa where that claim can be made. The spectre of Zulu history pervades the place.